By Ayomide Otitoju
The French Senate is expected to approve a landmark bill on Tuesday aimed at regulating the fast fashion industry, with measures including a ban on advertising and financial penalties for companies deemed environmentally harmful.
The bill, which received overwhelming support in the lower house National Assembly in March 2024, is widely seen as targeting Chinese e-commerce giant Shein and similar “ultra-fast fashion” platforms known for selling low-cost, low-quality clothing at high volumes.
With backing from both the government and most senators, the bill is anticipated to pass easily during Tuesday’s vote. However, the legislation still faces a final hurdle: a joint committee of senators and deputies will meet in September to consolidate the text before it is signed into law.
The legislation aims to curb the environmental impact of the textile industry, which environmental agency Ademe says sees 48 new clothing items per person released into the French market each year, with 35 items discarded every second.
“Fast fashion is flooding our market with products that do not last,” said Anne-Cécile Violland, the centre-right MP who introduced the bill. “This law will help us restore balance.”
Key provisions include an “eco-score” to assess a brand’s environmental footprint. Companies scoring poorly will be subject to penalties—starting at €5 per item in 2025 and rising to €10 by 2030, with a cap of 50% of the product’s value. Advertising bans and sanctions for influencers promoting such products are also included.
Right-wing senators revised the bill to narrow its focus on non-European companies such as Shein and Temu, sparing local brands like Zara, H&M, and Kiabi from the severest sanctions, though they will still be required to inform customers about the environmental impact of their products.
“I have no intention of making French brands that contribute to our economic vitality pay a single euro,” said Sylvie Valente Le Hir, the bill’s Senate rapporteur.
Industry response has been mixed. The Textiles Industry Union (UIT) called the bill “a first step” and urged swift passage, despite noting it “does not entirely fit our expectations.”
Shein, meanwhile, warned the measure could hurt French consumers. “This would effectively add a €10 tax per item by 2030,” said Quentin Ruffat, the company’s spokesperson, arguing it would reduce purchasing power.
Green Party Senator Jacques Fernique welcomed the direction of the bill but cautioned that its impact could fall short without robust enforcement and a clear framework.
Once passed, the French government will notify the European Commission to ensure the law aligns with EU regulations. Talks are also expected to extend to the broader European level, with France seeking continental action against ultra-fast fashion practices.
